Bibliotheca  STUDY Magazine and Queering Fashion

STUDY Magazine Issue 1

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A Portfolio by Vivienne Rohner — on celebrating a renewed sense of femininity and empowerment, on creative process and the art of collaboration. Ever changing days. Rooms, planes and car rides. Between excitement and loneliness, a woman documents her life on the periphery of the rue Cambon.

This first volume is dedicated to the photographic practice of Swiss model Vivienne Rohner.

Since the month of October 2021, Vivienne carried her camera during all her interactions with the house of Chanel. Airports, hotel rooms, waiting rooms, fittings, leisurely walks with her dog Skipper, fashion shows and advertising campaigns, her camera never left her side. Christopher Niquet has long admired Vivienne’s strong esthetic sense and how she applies it to all layers of her life. From the clothing she wears, the choices she’s made with her modeling career to the books, music and movies she consumes.

The resulting images are beautiful abstracted portraits of this bond between her and the Parisian fashion house. Much like fellow photographer Vivian Maeir, Vivienne Rohner doesn’t put herself front and center in her images, but uses her surroundings to create an emotional landscape. Through reflections, empty spaces, blurry crowd scenes, details of her daily life, she uses the mundane to tell a bigger story, one of a young woman coming into her own.

Published 06/2022

Queering Fashion – by International Library for Fashion Research

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On the occasion of the inaugural exhibition for the International Library of Fashion Research in collaboration with the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design (in Oslo, Norway), Printed Matter’s Chelsea location is hosting an in-store film screening featuring the work of Lengua. The artist, whose work parallels fashion and art and deconstructs perspectives of gender via fashion, was commissioned to create an interactive fashion film that genuinely involves and reflects the international underground queer scene.

This catalog was published to accompany the screening, giving context to the themes, the commission and the project, with contributors selected by the artist themselves in dialogue with the curators. The catalogue expands and explores themes behind the commission such as the anthropocene, queer historiography, synergies between the respective local and international underground scenes and alternative gender expression.

Through the lense of a flickering sun, the short film titled «Bliss, Abyss» narrates three characters on an apocalyptic or disastrous quest towards another world; bodies (with grotesque costumes and sun-burnt skin) in relationship with other bodies. An extension of Lengua’s personal work within fashion and photography, this film is a highly candid, poetic and visually compelling artistic interpretation of the project’s themes-at-large; such as queer identities, alternative gender expression and Queer Futurism.

The film (which will also be shown throughout the summer months in Oslo) is corresponding with Norway’s “Queer Culture Year 2022”, a series of events marking 50 years since homosexuality was decriminalized. At Printed Matter (the first satellite exhibition of the film); the display will also feature a series of books and reference materials further expanding on the themes of the project.

Published 07/2022

STUDY

The impulse for STUDY grew out of editor-in-chief and founder Christopher Niquet’s experiences as a fashion editor and writer and of his desire to create a place where words and images could be equally valued and given the same level of care and space on the page. Though the format will never change, the pagination with each new volume will. From posters to lengthly multi-pages portfolio, each volume will be dedicated to one signature. Whether it be a photographer, director, writer or artist, the entirety of each volume will be dedicated solely to their world. STUDY is published in English with a periodicity attuned to a drop system of 4 to 8 volumes per year. Each issue will be designed by the renowned Parisian agency Petronio Associates.

 

International Library of Fashion Research

International Library of Fashion Research will open physically in the dedicated venue of “Stasjonsmesterboligen”, located on the campus of the newly built and prestigious 55,000 square metres National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo, Norway. While continuing to operate independently, this agreement reasserts the library in its purpose to defend its critical engagement in fashion printed culture at an institutional level. Opening in 2022.

Founded in 2020, the Library will become the world’s most comprehensive repository of specialized fashion research and contemporary fashion publications. They will fill a much-needed gap in the preservation of and critical engagement with fashion’s printed culture at an institutional level, and build a free, globally accessible resource for fashion researchers, industry professionals, and amateur enthusiasts. International Library of Fashion Research is actively working not only to preserve fashion’s past, but to understand its present and contribute to its future.